Northwest Nature Log Further adventures in the Spanish Pyrenees

Published 12:35 pm Tuesday, September 1, 2015

After our great luck seeing the wallcreeper in the Boca del Infierno area, we decided to start back down the valley and stopped near the small town of Siresa, a bit north of Hecho. A grassy abandoned field surrounded by overgrown bramble looked promising for birds. While we wandered around stretching our legs and admiring the ancient walled town across the valley, we had good looks at griffon vultures above. These enormous birds are pale brown and have fuzzy white feathering on their faces. I didn’t think we looked so tired out that the vultures would take in interest. Another beautiful dark-phase booted eagle drifted on the thermals above us. It was silent except for the calls of birds hidden deep in the bramble.

Once or twice we had heard the odd purring call of a small bird called a European bee eater. These colorful little gems prefer eat bees, wasps and hornets, but feast on other insects as well. On our way back to Jaca, near the town of Berdun, we stopped to check a sunny open field dotted with shrubby growth. We were lucky. Six European bee eaters were perched on the bare limbs of a snag, looking just like polished, multi-colored ornaments. One by one they flew out pick off flying insects and return to the snag. The rich gold-yellow on their throats was easily seen and their cinnamon crowns glowed. Their gemlike feathers flashed in the low sunlight. Just perfect for the last bird of the day.

Finally, back to Jaca for a late dinner. Dinner is not served until 9:30 p.m. at the earliest, so snacks on the way help prevent cranky birders. Dining in northern Spain is a treat. The excellent wines of the nearby Rioja area are plentiful and reasonable. Salads feature local specialties such as white asparagus and sweet red pepper. Beef and lamb are cooked on a grate (asador) over an open fire. The restaurants are almost always partially open air, and it’s very common to see the family dog curled up happily under a diner’s chair.

We went to bed very late but extremely happy with the day’s remarkable birds.

The next day we drove to Ordesa National Park, a few hours northeast of Jaca. This park adjoins the French national park on the north side of the Pyrenees. Cars are not allowed inside the Park, and the number of visitors allowed in at one time is limited.

Although we visited during one of the busiest months, we had no trouble entering as soon as we arrived.

The Pyrenees surround the Park, vast and dreaming in the cloudless sky. Rio Soaso runs the length of the Park and well-marked trails follow on both sides to the many falls which roar down a series of rocky steps. Beech forest prevails, interspersed with linden and Spanish pine. Marsh tit and coal tit, which resemble our chickadees and firecrest, which resembles our ruby-crowned kinglet, are common in the café hub area.

It is possible to climb to the top of the nearby peaks, although the trail is a rough, arduous series of switchbacks. The climb takes roughly four to five hours one way. At the top, the view makes it all worthwhile. The Soaso River is a tiny silver thread coursing through the valley. The rocky buttresses continue to climb above for several thousand meters. In the meadow where we stopped, our party saw several mountain specialties, such as red-billed chough, a crow size black bird with a brilliant red bill. We were so high on the hill that the griffon vultures and Egyptian vultures, a lovely beige bird with a leathery yellow face, were flying below us.

It was after eight when we arrived back at the hub area. The buses run until ten in the park in order to accommodate late-returning hikers. It would be easy to spend several days birding the many side-road and backcountry areas in this beautiful place. We drove slowly back to Jaca, once again tired but delighted with our birds and lovely day.

Tune in again for further Spanish birding adventures.