To every thing turn turn turn

There is a season turn turn turn…

— Pete Seeger, with little help from the Book of Ecclesiastes

Jackson and I walk the tidelands by the shellfish station in Nahcotta every morning. His nose is to the ground reading the stories laid down by last night’s visitors. My eyes are either on the ever-changing clouds or the muddy fields around us; these lands have gone from successively blooming foxgloves, goldenrod, gumweed, wild carrot, and yarrow to, now, spritely blue asters. Back home, I’ve been grateful to have Yakima apple wood for rainy morning fires.

Yep, fall has officially fallen — it happened at 8:44 a.m. Eastern time on Sept. 22. That’s when the sun crossed the celestial equator, and day and night were equal. (“Equinox” comes from the Latin: “equus” meaning equal and “nox” for night.) Since earth is tipped on its axis 23.5 degrees, the equinox happens twice a year in September and March. And now the inevitable begins, as night, step by step, takes over and our days shorten, the leaves lose their chlorophyl, and coffee becomes pumpkin-flavored.

Is it being born in autumn that makes this my favorite season? Or is it simply this magical transition from green green green to the marvelous variety of fall colors: the golden light at dusk, the reds and golds, the mountains preparing for their white coats again?

Summer has always been about hustle and bustle on the Peninsula, what with all our festivals, foodie gigs, live everything, and tourists. Fall, it seems to me, is our time to be locals again: to gather in small friendly groups for meals, games around a table, books by the fire, conversations. Autumn fading into winter is a time for reflection and thanks giving. So, although I’ll miss our sunny days, I’m glad for more quiet time and a chance to recharge.

Colleen is back in business

Just in time for this changing of the seasons, two legendary places have reopened. First, Colleen is back! After her husband Gary’s passing, she took some time to mend, both her spirit and some of the features of her coffee house and yarn shop on Bay Avenue. We’re so grateful to have her watering hole again — we missed you, Colleen. Whether it’s sitting around at the back room table, sinking into the comfy sofas and chairs up front, or (maybe we’ll get a few more sunny days) lolling outside on the patio, it’s guaranteed you’ll see someone you know.

Al Betters, amazing Navy Seal vet, is often there ordering coffee for himself and a latte (“not too hot”) for Nanci Main. He taught Nanci cribbage and the current score I hear is ten games to her six wins — not bad I’d say. Cribbage is a fave of the Navy, so Al’s had lots of practice, and he’s a wizard at pegging before the count. (And evidently a pretty good teacher.)

Nahcotta port Commissioner Phil Martin is often hanging out on the porch, probably trying not to get caught up in any political talk. I pop in occasionally for a brew, or to grab a cinnamon roll or sticky bun (for friends — wink wink) or an everything bagel with cream cheese. Jackson says you can still feel the good Doxie energy there.

Moby Dick’s nine lives

Another amazing resurrection is happening in Nahcotta. When Fritzi Cohen passed away on Dec. 20, 2022, the fate of the Moby Dick — which had already been in a state of at least deferred maintenance if not neglect — was uncertain. Fritzi was bi-coastal; she owned both the Moby Dick and the Tabard Inn in Washington, D.C (tinyurl.com/56su6wch). Those of us who knew her, admired her passionate support of our bay, social justice, and sustainability in general. But now, what would happen to the Moby — with its iconic oyster beds, the sauna, yurt, historical furniture and art, and the commercial kitchen?

Well, now we know. This chapter of the story starts with Alyson Myers, president of the Fearless Fund, “an organization dedicated to novel and scientific solutions for our waterways, including rising sea levels, oxygenation, climate change, and nutrient pollution” (www.fearlessfund.org).

As Alyson says. “I’m an oyster farmer on the coast of Virginia, and I began to see seaweed choking our beds. So we said, ‘This is pollution — but let’s use it.’ We began developing a process of using seaweed to clean up nutrient pollution. We were starting to scale this to decrease dead zones, and at one point the Department of Energy said, ‘Could you seaweed people figure out how to do this at an industrial scale?’ So we’re working on that.”

“Anyway I got to know Fritzi and she asked me to be on the board of the nonprofit she’d started — the Fearless Fund — and I said, of course. And then she asked would I be willing to take over the organization? Initially, I said, ‘Well, I’m not a nonprofit person — I’m a small business person’ — but finally I said OK.”

“Then, lo and behold, a couple years later, Fritzi got sick and because of her goals of doing good in life she wanted the Moby Dick to go to the right nonprofit. I think she looked around for several years and in the end she gifted it to Fearless Fund. But she didn’t tell me — one of her kids told me at her service! They said, “You know, Fritzi left you the Moby Dick.’ and I said, ‘What?!’ and they said ‘Oh, you didn’t know?’

“Anyway, the choice was, do we sell it or roll up our sleeves? So we came to visit and fell in love with it. The gift was so generous I wanted to give it a try — to honor it — so, yes, we rolled up our sleeves. We put together this team and others and have just jumped in and fallen in love with the area. We’ve met great people here, and everybody has been supportive — we knew it would be a heavy lift. Obviously we’re not finished, but I’d say we’re 95% there.”

Renovations have included new plumbing — “The first time we visited a pipe had broken and water was pouring down all the walls from the attic!” — painting, sprucing up the furniture, and getting the commercial kitchen in shape. (By the way, if you know of a good chef wanting a primo platform for his/her/their talents, drop a note to the Moby Dick: themobydickhotel.com).

Because of Alyson’s science background (she has an environmental MS from Duke University), they are billing the hotel as a place for visiting scientists. However, I’m also putting up a couple of my literary buddies there at the end of the month. (I say, scratch a poet, find a scientist… or vice versa.)

The Moby Dick Hotel has had several lives since it was built in 1929. On three acres, it includes the kitchen, dining room, three living rooms, eight bathrooms, 10 guest rooms, an innkeeper’s suite, a 40-person event yurt, sauna out-building, and bay views. (For more info and reservations see their website.) “We want to be here and the community wants us too,” said Alyson last week.

I’m personally grateful this Nahcotta treasure is being brought back and polished up; and I know Fritzi would be, too.

So turn the corner, turn on the furnace, and turn the page from your summer reading — those funny romances or whatever — to non-fiction (or maybe horror stories depending on what happens with the election). Soak in these last days of sun and get ready to savor the pleasure of fall.

Veterans event coming up

And, by the way, mark your calendars for the Veterans Gratitude Lunch, November 11, from noon to 2 p.m. at the Peninsula Moose Lodge #2362. It’s always John Vale’s pot roast, veggies, rolls, potatoes and gravy, and pies from the community. Spread the word. We’re asking all veterans to call and let us know you’re coming: 360-214-8213.