QUESTION: We are anxious to plant some vegetable seeds, but our soils are still very cold and wet. Is there anything we can do to help them warm up and dry out?

ANSWER: Be patient! Tilling wet soil results in compaction and destruction of soil texture. Unfortunately, wet clay soil stays cold late into the spring. Covering the bare ground with clear polyethylene plastic film will help retain the sun’s warmth and will often raise the soil temperature 10 to 15 degrees in a few days. A double layer of clear plastic, with a small, insulating air space between the layers, will produce even higher soil temperatures.

Black plastic is not as effective as clear plastic in warming the soil and results in higher temperatures only when in contact with the soil.

Wavelength selective plastic film, which allows heat waves to penetrate the film, but keeps light rays from entering, will also warm soil effectively in early spring. This type of material marketed as infrared transmitting (IRT) plastic or under brand initials (Al-Or) is used from early spring through the growing season.

Building raised beds 10 to 12 inches above the normal soil level has many advantages for short season vegetable production. Soil in raised beds dries out and warms faster in the spring, and drainage is better throughout the growing season, allowing for earlier planting and better plant growth. Soil in raised beds with a Southern exposure will warm more than level soil. Add new soil, or amend native soil during the formation of the beds. Make beds 3 to 4 feet wide so you can work from the pathways on either side eliminating compaction from foot traffic.

QUESTION: We have been told to leave the foliage on our daffodils until it has naturally dried up. Would it be okay to braid or tie the leaves to make them more attractive?

ANSWER: Spring-flowering bulbs bring a dazzling display of blossoms that help chase away the winter doldrums. But as the flowers fade, the foliage that remains is not very attractive – and in some cases it’s downright unsightly! Resist the urge to cut those green leaves off the plants.

The health of this year’s foliage will determine the amount of carbohydrates that will be stored in the bulb below ground this fall. These stored reserves, in turn, determine the strength of the blooms for next spring. Some gardeners attempt to “tidy up” the foliage by gathering the leaves into bundles and either braiding or tying them in a knot. Although it is better than removing the foliage, the leaves that are inside the bundle will not be exposed to light, reducing photosynthesis and future blooming potential.

As the blooms fade, you should cut the flower stalk off to prevent seed formation, which uses up food reserves that are better spent on bulb growth. However, help the foliage thrive by providing plenty of sunshine, a pinch of fertilizer, and water when the weather is dry. When the bulb foliage begins to turn yellow or brown, you can remove the leaves and add them to your compost pile. Tulip foliage generally dies back by mid-June, but daffodil foliage can remain green until mid-summer.

You can make the bulb foliage less noticeable by interplanting with perennial and annual flowers. Interplanting also will help keep the bed interesting long after the bulb flowers fade. Select plants that bloom at different times in spring and summer to keep the bed in color throughout the season. Plants such as candytuft, false rock-cress, and phlox provide early color yet stay low to the ground so they provide an attractive background for bulb flowers. Plants such as daylilies and coreopsis, as well as many annual flowers, grow a bit taller in late spring and summer, so they can provide a good screen to mask the bulb foliage.

EDITOR’S NOTE: For answers to local gardening questions, contact Master Gardener Rachel Gana at 642-8723 or e-mail her at: baiter1@pacifier.com. Donald D. Tapio is a WSU Area Extension Agent and may be reached at (360) 482-2934.